Rinsing and storing dive gear after saltwater

Salt and sand are the main reasons dive gear wears out early. As seawater dries, it leaves crystals in hinges, buckles and strap ends, and those crystals can corrode metal fittings, grind against seals and stiffen moving parts. Rinsing everything in fresh water after the day's diving, drying each item fully and storing it away from heat keeps gear working for longer and makes a failure on the next dive less likely.

Each item needs slightly different handling. Some pieces trap water and must be drained, some rubber seals age faster in heat, and regulators and dive computers come with manufacturer instructions that take priority over any general routine.

Masks, snorkels and fins

Rinse masks, snorkels and fins in a container or under a gentle stream of fresh water as soon as you can after the dive. Salt collects inside the mask skirt, around the strap buckles and at the strap ends, so rinse those spots deliberately rather than assuming the outside is enough. For a snorkel, run fresh water through the tube, flush the purge valve and shake out what remains. Rinse fins inside the foot pockets as well as along the blades, where sand can work into the straps.

Dry these items in the shade with air moving around them. Lay masks and fins on a clean surface rather than on sand or rock, and hang snorkels so the tube drains completely. A snorkel that is bagged while water remains in its tube can develop a musty smell and mildew. While the gear dries, check the mask lens for cracks, the skirt for splits or lifting, the strap for stretching and the buckles for corrosion. Check fin blades for cracks and fin straps for wear. Mark any item that shows damage so it is not used until it has been repaired or replaced. Store masks in a hard case or pouch where the lens cannot be scratched, and keep fins out of direct sunlight, because the blades can warp and the rubber can harden when they are left in heat.

Buoyancy devices and regulators

Run fresh water through the buoyancy device's inflator and dump valves, then drain it fully by hanging it open, so no water remains in the bladder, pockets or hoses. For storage, leave the device partly inflated so the bladder does not stick to itself. Hang it open rather than folding it while it is still damp. After rinsing, operate the inflator and dump valves a few times to confirm that they seal and release air freely. A valve that sticks open or leaks should be serviced before the next dive.

Disconnect the regulator from the tank before rinsing it. Before you start, dry the dust cap and seat it firmly on the first-stage inlet, then keep it on for the whole rinse so water cannot enter there. Rinse the second stage gently, with the mouthpiece pointing down and the flow directed over it, so no water is forced into the exhaust valve. Do not press the purge button while rinsing an unpressurized regulator, because that lets water into the hose and first stage. If you remove the dust cap afterward, make sure the cap and the inlet are completely dry before you refit it, so no moisture is sealed inside the first stage.

Hoses deserve gentle handling throughout. Hang or coil them loosely, never kinked or bent sharply, and keep them away from sharp edges and the ground when the gear is stored. A hose that is repeatedly kinked is more likely to crack or leak, and a crack is much easier to spot during a routine inspection than during a dive.

Check the O-rings on the regulator, tanks and buoyancy device for flattening, nicks or dryness, and check hoses for cuts or hardening. Lubricate O-rings only with the lubricant the manufacturer specifies, which is usually silicone-based, because petroleum-based products can damage many rubber and silicone seals. If a seal looks dry or damaged, take the item to a qualified technician rather than trying to fix it on the spot.

Computers, lights and storage

Rinse dive computers as the manufacturer directs, keep the battery compartment dry and avoid strong detergents on the case and buttons. Before closing the battery compartment, check that its seal is clean and seated, with no grit caught in it. If the manufacturer advises it, remove replaceable batteries before long periods of storage. Lights and other electrical items should be rinsed, dried completely and stored separately from the rest of the gear.

Store equipment in a cool, dry, ventilated place away from heat sources and direct sunlight, and never leave gear in a hot car, because heat speeds up the aging of rubber and plastic. Avoid sealing wet gear in plastic bags or containers, since trapped moisture encourages mold. Keep gear away from fuel, paint and cleaning chemicals in the same space, because their fumes and residues can attack rubber and plastic. Make sure every item is dry before it is packed away.

Rinsing does not replace servicing. Regulators, buoyancy devices and dive computers need scheduled checks by qualified technicians or the manufacturer's service network, and a regulator that breathes harder than usual, leaks or feels stiff should be serviced before it is used again.